Enjoy the Colorful Photographic Impressions made by Vann Helms
One year ago today, we were facing a hard freeze after a 25 degree night that left a heavy frost on everything. This year, the unseasonably warm weather has brought an early Spring, and the colors have not been nearly as dramatic. What a difference a year makes.
Originally posted on Living in The Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina- A Blog:
It was 25 degrees this morning and has been below freezing for over nine hours, with more to go. Tonight will be the same. After two inches of needed rain Monday night and Tuesday morning, cloudy skies gave way to clear blue in the afternoon, with stiff winds over 25 mph. Snow fell in northern Alabama. Right now, the rainwater has frozen and risen from the dirt, and large puddles have a sheet of ice as in dead winter.
With the white and pink Dogwood finally in full bloom, and the Kwansan Cherry heavy with giant pink flowers, I felt it best to capture their dramatic color while I still could. I can only imagine what might be happening to the apple blossoms around Hendersonville. These late deep freezes can ruin the season for these growers. Also, with most other trees pushing out new tender leaves, even their…
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Here are my impressions of this beautiful, deserted stretch of coastline just north of the Georgia-Florida border. Much of the island is designated as “Wilderness Area” by the Parks Service. The serenity of the place was the best part of being there. There is no development on the island. Wild horses roam free. A ferry takes a very limited number of visitors from the mainland. You must go…
Check out this 5 minute video of a high speed ride along the beach…
In the 1880’s, Pittsburgh steel magnate Thomas Carnegie and his wife Lucy bought the majority of Cumberland Island, the largest barrier island along Georgia’s ragged coastline, from descendants of Revolutionary War General Nathaniel Greene. Within five years they constructed a magnificent palatial mansion on the spot where the Greene family had built their own grand residence, and called it “Dungeness”, after the original Greene house. Thomas was born in Scotland, so the name was appropriate. In 1886, the house welcomed its first occupants, which included the nine children of Thomas and Lucy, and the many servants that were required to run a property that large. Sadly, Thomas Carnegie died just two years after completing Dungeness.
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The Carnegies came south every October, by sea, and remained in residence until April. At least one Carnegie daughter was married at Dungeness. Florence, called “Flossie” married Frederick Perkins in 1901.
The family continued to winter at Dungeness, but in 1959, a suspicious fire tore through the mansion, leaving it in ruins, which is the way it appears today.
I made this photograph, and the others in this post, while spending three days on Cumberland Island the first week of April. Below is the view from behind the ruins looking south across the salt marsh toward Florida.
Cumberland Island is 18 miles long and three miles wide. It is only accessible by a 45 minute ferry ride. Only 300 visitors a day are permitted to disembark at one of four docks located on the western side of the island. In 1972, the Carnegie family worked with the Federal government, who acquired the island, and established the Cumberland Island National Seashore. Descendants of Thomas and Lucy Carnegie were given lifetime permits to remain on the island, but all structures became part of the National Park Service. Many houses have been allowed to rot and collapse, but two mansions remain as viable legacies to America’s Gilded Age.
The largest of the two was built in 1898 by Lucy Carnegie, and given to her son, George, and his bride, Margaret, as a wedding present, if you can call a 106 room, 22,000 sq. ft. house a wedding present.
This Georgian Revival “Cottage” was designed by the same architectural firm that designed many of the large estates at Newport, Rhode Island. It was completed just three years after George Vanderbilt finished his Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina, and had the obligatory tiled heated indoor pool, and a full indoor squash court. Tiffany fixtures hung in the house, while hand printed silk and canvass wallpaper was featured throughout the residence. When George died, the house went to his younger sister, Nancy, whose family wintered there for many years. The house was allowed to fall into disrepair, and only recently did the park service find the funds to rehabilitate this dowager so the public could enjoy its grandeur. Once again the parquet floors, Tiffany chandeliers, and walnut paneled rooms is welcoming visitors.
The same pick-up truck that carried six of us to Plum Orchard Plantation on wooden side benches in the back bed, then dove us north along the only road on the island, a single lane dirt path, to see the place that draws most visitors to this remote place, but along the 45 minute bumpy ride, we passed one of Cumberland’s famous wild horses, eating new chutes growing up through the tidal mud at low tide.
Oral history says that the horses are descendants of Polo ponies that were released during the Depression when the old families could no longer provide for their welfare. Another story puts them on the island when the English were here in the 18th century. There is fresh water on the large island, like the lake shown below, and plenty of wide open grazing space.
In 1996, John F. Kennedy. Jr. married Carolyn Bessette, and they chose Cumberland Island as the place they would be married because of the total privacy the island offered. A small vilage known only as The Settlement, was located at the far north end of the island. This is where people freed from slavery settled after the Civil War, and they built a small church, which also served as their school. It was in this simple structure that vows were exchanged, away from the prying cameras of the papparazzi. It is a very special place.
You might be thinking, “Where did the wedding party stay in such a remote place?”, and that leads us to the last of the three Carnegie mansions. Instead of fighting the narrow path back to the south end of the island, our guide drove us east to the expansive beach that lines the eastern side of Cumberland.
Greyfield, a colonial revival 15,000 sq. ft. house, was built in 1901 by Lucy Carnegie as a wedding present to her daughter Margaret when she married Oliver Ricketson. Margaret’s daughter, named Lucy after her grandmother, inherited the house, and lived there with her husband, Mr. Ferguson, and their children. Today, Lucy Ferguson’s grandson, Mitty, and his wife Mary, operate Greyfield as the island’s only hostelry, now called the Greyfield Inn. We stayed at the inn while we were on Cumberland. It was too small for the 50 person Kennedy wedding party, so Mitty and Mary parsed out beds in smaller private family cottages located near the inn. The priest stayed with them in their house.
Every afternoon, cocktails were available in a fully stocked “honor” bar next to the library. In addition to Victorian antiques, Chippendale pieces, and Tiffany lamps, there were hors d’oeuvres served in the Parlor. The library had many first editions from the Carnegie family, including a signed Rudyard Kipling printing. A bridal portrait of Margaret Carnegie Ricketson hangs in the parlor.
A sunrise walk to the beach under a canopy of ancient Live Oaks found the rising sun straight ahead. This alignment only happens a few days each year. It was the perfect way to end this tour of Cumberland Island and the remarkable Carnegie mansions that are scattered around this pristine natural setting.
At the far north end of Lake Lure is Rumbling Bald Resort, and the centerpiece of the popular destination is the golf course. With spring suddenly arriving last week, it was the perfect time to get back out onto the links.
The Canada Geese had the same idea…
It was 78 degrees today around an almost full Lake Lure. After six days of mild temperatures, Spring is here, and it has happened in just a few days.
From a high ridge on the east side of the lake, Hickory Nut Gorge stretches toward Bearwallow Mountain on the western horizon. Hard to believe that all of this was covered in snow just seventeen days ago, and that the coldest temperature in ten years was recorded just three weeks ago.
Even before any signs of the approaching Spring are visible in Otter Creek Valley, the colors of the winter forest are as bright and electric as any other time of the year.
Roan Horsetop Mountain catches the rays of the rising sun.
A distant Mount Shumont at Lake Lure still dominates this winter sunrise, with Dick’s Mountain on the left.
Below is a 15 second video that shows Hunter and Buddy oblivious to the striking beauty all around them.
Lake Lure is called the world’s most beautiful manmade lake, and it sure lived up to its reputation yesterday at sunset. With no wind, the water was like a mirror, and a mist clung to the surface like the vapor of dry ice. Recent rain left behind low clouds that hugged the mountains. Over the past week, the dam has been almost closed so that the lake can refill after being lowered last November by almost six feet to allow for dock and seawall repairs, and dredging of mud and silt at the Rumbling Bald Resort on the far north end. Within a week, the rowing crews from many northeastern colleges will arrive for their spring training.
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